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Vegetables and gardens planting guide

Decorating Country Home Garden Vegetables Planting Guide farm gardenVegetables – Having been raised up on a farm. One of my first dreaded jobs was working in the vegetable garden. I’m not talking about a few rows but a few acres! The garden was carefully planned by my grandmother, for it was intended to feed three families, plus the neighborly sharing of the bounty.

Every row was carefully thought out, with each vegetable arranged accordingly. My grandmother would stake each row and hang the seed bag to the stake so there would be no mistaking of which vegetable went where.

Gardening on this scale can be very hard work, but non-the-less, there is nothing better than the taste of fresh vegetables. Not to mention the money saved at the super market.

Whether you have space for a large garden or an “Odds and Ends” garden, do your family and yourself a favor by planning a vegetable garden within your means.

Many areas can be used,

  • back yard fences
  • flower beds
  • small back yard area
  • beds along walks and drives
  • near foundation of house or other buildings
  • patios, back porches or balconies

So even if you live in the city and do not have enough space for a regular garden, there is still hope. No matter how small your house or area is, there are always areas where you can garden. In fact, you’ll be surprised at what can be grown in a little space here and here about the yard.


The two kinds of artichokes are: Globe, grown for immature flower buds; and Jerusalem, for its underground tubers.Globe artichokes can be grown from either seed or suckers. Sow seed in hotbeds or coldframes four to six weeks before time to set.

Transplant in the garden when danger of frost has passed. One planting will usually last about four years. Set plants or suckers 4 feet apart each way. Artichoke is a heavy feeder and needs rich soil and much fertilizer.

Prepare ground the same as for Irish potatoes. Plant whole tuber, if small in size. If large cut in blocks weighing about 2 ounces (about size of a hen egg). Plant 2 apart in rows 3 feet wide, covering 4 inches deep.

Do this as early in spring as soil can be worked. Dig tubes soon as frost kills the tops, or let them remain in ground until wanted. Freezing will not hurt them. Remember, artichoke may become troublesome in the garden as a weed.


When well established, asparagus will continue to produce for many years, if given proper care. The secret of success with this crop is a rich porous soil, one well filled with organic matter. All vegetables demand a rich soil, but asparagus must have it. Make heavy applications of stable manure, compost, and commercial fertilizer before planting.

Cost or non availability of animal manure may make it unwise to try to maintain fertility by the use of it alone. But, make as much use of it as possible without too much cost.

In addition to commercial fertilizer (to supplement animal manure or compost), organic material may be supplied by turning under green leguminous crops before setting. Use any leguminous crop that grows well in your section, such as soybeans, cowpeas, clovers, and vetches.

Because asparagus occupies the ground a long time, locate rows to one side of the garden. It may be planted in beds, but the row method is much more satisfactory. It may be grown from seed, but the common practice is to buy crowns and set them in winter or early spring.

After the ground has been thoroughly pulverized by repeatedly plowing and harrowing, lay off the rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Dig the furrow or trench 10 to 12 inches deep and 24 inches wide— wide enough to spread out the roots in their natural position.

When digging, put topsoil on one side of row and subsoil on the other. If a middle-buster or turning plow is used, be sure to open a furrow as wide and deep as that suggested above.

Put 2 inches of well rotted stable manure or compost material in the bottom of the trench or furrow. On top of this spread 10 pounds of high-grade commercial fertilizer for each 100 feet of row. Then mix these thoroughly with soil by digging or running a cultivator through it.

Cover with an inch or two of topsoil and set crowns 18 to 24 Inches apart, taking care to spread the roots in their natural position, and clip off any broken or otherwise injured roots. Cover with 3 inches of topsoil. Wait until after growth starts in spring and then gradually work in enough soil to level the row.

Of course, asparagus may be planted without digging a trench and putting in manure and fertilizer, but this is desirable because of the long time it will occupy the ground. If your garden is low and subject to flooding, plant crowns on the level and build up high rows to cover crowns to desired depth. This will provide better drainage.

One hundred crowns will produce enough for an average family, both as a fresh vegetable and for canning and freezing. To produce white or bleached asparagus, pull dirt in a high ridge on top of the row and cut several inches below the surface just as the shoots come through the ground. To get the green, which is more nutritious, leave row without a high ridge and cut shoots at ground level or just below when they reach desired height.

Soon after the plants start growing the first season, sidedress with 6-8-8 or comparable analysis fertilizer, use 5 to 10 pounds per 100 feet of row, and apply on both sides. About June, side-dress with 1 pound of nitrogen fertilizer to each 100 feet of row.

Each fall when the stalks die, cut down level with the ground, rake off, and burn. Do not cut the tips at all the first season. Cut only two or weeks the second, to allow a strong root system to develop. From the third year on, extend the cutting season 2 weeks each year to a maximum of 8 to 10 weeks. Then let tops grow rest of season.

Immediately after cutting is stopped, give a liberal broadcast application of stable manure, or compost, and 5 to 10 pounds of 6-8-8 or comparable analysis fertilizer per 100 feet of row. Keep entirely free of weeds and grass. Mulching will help.

Beans (Snapbeans)

Beans grow well on many types of soil. They do best on well drained and thoroughly prepared ground. They require, as do all other vegetables, a fertile soil. However, they do not need as much nitrogen as do nonlegumes.

A fertilizer with 4 to 5% nitrogen is usually sufficient, whereas most non-legumes should have 5 to 10% or more. On soils not highly rich, the higher percentage of nitrogen may be used. Apply 5 to 10 pounds of a complete fertilizer per 100 feet of row.

For bush varieties, make rows 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 feet wide. Plant single seed 2 to 3 inches apart, or if the hill method is preferred, put down two to three seed every 6 inches. Plant seed 1 inch deep on heavy or stiff soils and 1 1/2 inches deep on light or sandy soils.

Depth of planting is important, as beanscannot push their way through the soil if planted too deep. Plant as soon as danger of frost has passed. It is often worth taking a chance on an early planting; the season may be early and you will have a good, early crop.

Cultivate often enough to kill weeds and grasses as soon as they come through and to prevent a crust forming. Never cultivate when plants are wet, as this often spreads disease:

A planting every two weeks from early spring up to 50 to 60 days fore average fall frost date will give fresh beans from early summer until frost. This practice is much better than less frequent and larger plantings.

Beans (Pole)

Plant in rows 3 to 4 feet wide. Space 12 to 24 inches apart in the row, putting two to four seed in each hill. If planted much thicker than this, the vines will become so thick that rust disease may be a problem because of poor air circulation and shading. A second planting in June or July is desirable. Plant only after danger of frost has passed.

Beans and sunflowers must be planted at the same time. Many prefer the pole-type snapbean to the bush type. They bear over a much longer period, but do not bear so early. Staking or trellising is more troublesome.

Plant them to one side of the garden or group with other tall-growing crops to prevent shading lower-growing vegetables on either or both sides.


Beets grow fast in early spring or fall when weather is mild. If beets do not grow and produce well, but turn brownish in color, you can be pretty sure that the soil is too acid.

Lime soil before planting another crop. Beets need a fertile, deep soil. Plant thick, 15 to 18 seed per foot of drill. Cover only about 1/2 inch deep. When up and growing well, thin to one plant each 2 or 3 inches. These thinnings may be set elsewhere, as the beet is fairly easy to transplant.

Make the first planting as soon as ground is workable in early spring. Four to six weeks before last frost is a good planting date. While young beets are killed by hard freezes, they withstand frost and light freezes. Make a second planting in May or June, and a third from July to September. These three plantings, if properly put in and cared for, will give a constant supply throughout the season.

Beet tops make excellent greens, and it is a mistake to throw them away. The crop maturing in late fall may be banked or stored like turnips. For storage, plant seed about 70 to 75 days before the first expected killing frost.


Broccoli is a very excellent vegetable, belonging to the same family of plants as cabba collards, and brussel sprouts, and grown in the same way.

It is a cool-weather plant, doing best when brought to maturity in late fall to early winter, and in early spring. For the spring crop, buy plants grow them in hotbed or coldframe. Set in the open when cabbage is ordinarily set. Drill seed for the fall crop during July or August. Thin to one plant for each 18 to 24 inches, or grow plants in beds and transplant.

Rows should be 3 to 4 feet wide. Cultivate, fertilize, and otherwise handle in the same general way as cabbage. Abundant fertilizer and nitrogen side-dressing will pay dividends with broccoli.

The edible portion of broccoli is the cluster of green flower buds. When these are well formed, but before flower buds start to open, cut them out for use. Then side sprouts will grow out, thus giving a supply over a long period of time.

Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts is another relative of cabbage and handled similarly. For the fall crop, drill seed during late July or August and thin to one plant for each 18 to 24 inches. Properly handled, it will be ready for use from late October or November.

For the spring crop, put in seed or plants as early as ground can be worked, or when spring cabbage is set. Brussels sprouts will stand as much cold as cabbage, but will not produce satisfactorily in hot weather. The edible part of brussels sprouts is a bud or small head produced in the leaf axil. These heads are about the size of an English walnut or a small-hulled black walnut.

Pull them when they reach proper size and before color changes. Pick several times, beginning at the bottom and working on up the stalk. As these are picked, break off the leaves. When lower sprouts and leaves are removed, new leaves and sprouts are formed farther up the stalk.

Butterbeans – Limas – Butter Peas

Bush limas (or butterbeans) are grown in the same general way as bush snap-beans. Plant one seed each 3 or 4 inches in the drill or four or five seed in hills 12 inches apart. Make the first planting as soon as danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed up a bit. Follow with plantings every three or four weeks through early July to have fresh beans all summer and up to frost.

The lima or butterbean is one of our most important vegetables. Even as a dry bean, it is excellent. Liberal plantings should be made in all gardens. It is very susceptible to bean beetle damage, but we often forget that it is even more resistant to dry weather than cowpeas.

Pole lima beans (or running butter-beans) should be planted like pole snapbeans. They must have something on which to run. A good place to plant them is next to the garden fence, where they can climb. Plant in rows 4 feet wide, with two to three seed in hill, 18 to 24 inches apart. As with other beans, avoid deep covering of the seed. Proper depth to plant is 1 inch on heavy soils and 1 1/2 inches on light or sandy soils.

Many consider the quality of the pole lima to be better than that of the bush type. If there is enough space plant enough to provide your needs. They do not bear as early as the bush limas, so plant enough bush limas an early crop.

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