Gardens...Vegetables...Planting Advice

Cabbage is one of the most important vegetables. It is easily grown, provided it is well fed. It can be used many ways. Even chickens like the used green leaves. It is a heavy feeder. Apply at least 10 pounds of a high-grade complete fertilizer per 100 feet of row when set or before. Then add a couple of side dressings of nitrogen fertilizer.

Give the first soon after plants are set or when growth has started, and the second when the leaves begin to bunch for heading. Use 1 pound per 100 feet of row each time. Make rows 3 feet wide and set plants or thin to one for each 12 to 24 inches, depending on variety. For the fall crop, sow seed during July or August in the row where they are to remain. Thin to one plant the desired distances.

Carrots

The high vitamin content of carrots, especially of A and BI, makes one of the most valuable of the root vegetables. It stands much cold, but midsummer heat in the Lower South is one cause of poor color and flavor. For the early-spring crop, plant seed four to six weeks before last frost usually occurs.

For a steady supply, make a second planting (except in Lower South) about two months after the first, and follow with a third in late summer. This last planting should do well anywhere in the South and be ready for use by late fall.

Any not used before hard freezing starts should be dug and banked, just as turnips are handled. In those parts of the South where winter temperature does not drop lower than 20 to 25 degrees above zero, leave them in the ground and use as needed.

Because carrots are long rooted, a deeply pulverized soil is desirable. This permits proper development. A rich soil, one containing much humus or organic matter, plus a liberal amount of high-potash commercial fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 4-12-12 is essential for heavy yields, good color, and flavor. Proper attention to liming the soil is also essential.

Carrot seed are small and must be planted in finely prepared ground to obtain a good stand. Sow thinly and cover about 1 inch deep. As soon as plants are a couple of inches high, thin to one plant every 2 to 2 1/2 inches. Do not wait later to thin.

Since carrot seed are slow to germinate, you may wish to plant a few radish seed along with carrots; these germinate quickly, mark the row for ease of cultivation, and help the carrots come through. Radish plants should be pulled out as soon as carrots are up allowing them to develop roots interferes with proper growth of the carrots. But, some people allow the radishes to grow until small roots are formed and then pull them out.

To help seed in germinating when the summer crop is planted, open up trench, soak bottom of it with water, and sow seed as soon as water has soaked in. Cover 1/2 inch deep and firm with back of rake. Carrots may be used when half-grown, thus one planting will last longer.

If your carrots are knotty and mis-shapen the cause may be root knot nematodes. The remedy is to use a soil fumigant before planting.

Cauliflower

Some have defined cauliflower as cabbage with a college education. It is a little more difficult to grow than cabbage, but is more delicately flavored and generally considered superior to cabbage.

Cultural methods are similar to those for cabbage. But it will not stand quite as much cold or heat. The spring crop must be set early enough for it to head before hot weather. Sow seed in hotbeds in December or January, and later transplant to coldframes. Plants may also be bought from growers in the Lower South or local plant growers. Set plants in the open at time cabbage plants are set.

Edible portion of cauliflower is the flower head which forms in the center. As soon as this head is about the size of a teacup, pull the leaves over it and tie together to keep out light. This keeps the head or "curd" white. Usually the head will be ready for use in a week to 10 days after leaves are tied up.

For a fall crop, sow seed in rows in July or early August, where they are to remain. Thin to one plant per hill after they are well established. The fall crop is often difficult to grow except where water is available for irrigation, since it must be started early enough to mature before hard cold.

Celeriac

Celeriac, sometimes called root celery, is not very commonly grown, but many like it for its celery flavor. It is grown in the same general way as celery, but requires no blanching.

Edible portion of celeriac is the enlarged root just above the ground, which usually grows to a diameter of 3-4 inches.

Like celery, celeriac must have a very fertile and thoroughly fined soil and plenty of water. It is used mainly for flavoring soups, but can be cooked and used like cauliflower. The leaves are not edible. It may be dug and stored like celery, or it may be heavily mulched when the weather gets cold and dug when wanted.

Celery

In Florida, celery is grown entirely as a winter crop from fall-sowed seed. In the Middle and Upper South it is grown as a fall crop, coming in about Thanksgiving or Christmas. A spring set crop is usually disappointing in Lower and Middle South unless it can be set early enough to mature before hot weather. In Upper South and mountain regions, a spring-set crop does quite well.

Sow seeds in May or June on a well prepared bed. Put seed on lines marked out on the surface about 6 inches apart. Put seed in with the back of a spade, but do not cover. Then cover the bed with burlap sacks and water well. This will hold moisture at the surface and prevent crusting. As seed germinate, the sacks must be lifted up gradually and finally removed. Then the plants must be kept clean of weeds.

As soon as plants are large enough to handle, transplant them to another bed in similar rows, but set 2 inches apart so they will get strongly rerooted.

If tops grow too strongly, they can be sheared somewhat. This will make strong plants for setting in late August or September.

Plant in rows 3 to 4 feet wide, setting plants 6 inches apart in the row. Be sure the ground is unusually well prepared and fertile. Water thoroughly immediately after setting, and repeat once a week until fall rains set in.

Blanching is not necessary with most varieties. However, if you wish white rather than green stalks, you can blanch it as follows: After proper size has been reached, blanch stalks by standing 12-inch boards on either side, close to the plants. These keep light from the main stalk. Leave 4 to 6 inches of the tops above boards. Or wrap stalks with heavy paper, up to 4 to 6 inches from the top. Usually 10 days to 2 weeks will cause sufficient blanching.

Celery will stand considerable cold, but before hard freezes arrive it should be used or dug and stored by transplanting in soil in cellar, boxes, etc. Many prefer the soil method of blanching and storing, as follows: When nights get cool in late fall, pull soil to plants on both sides of row. Continue this process as plants grow, taking care not to work in the celery when leaves are wet.

Just before hard freezing weather is expected in late November or December, cover entire row with soil 6 inches deep, and cover over thickly with straw. Then dig celery and use as wanted.

Chives

For flavoring stews, salads, a soups, many like chives, an onion-like plant. Plant the same time as onions, using either seed or bulbs. It is a perennial but should be divided and reset or every two or three years. Give clumps a space of 10 to 15 inches in the row as they may be expected to fill this much space if soil and other conditions are right. They fit very well in borders as well as in rows. Height does not usually exceed 6 to 9 inches.

Collard Greens

No form of greens is superior to the collard. It's vitamin and mineral content is fully equal to that of spinach, turnip greens, mustard, and kale and higher than that of cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower.

Collard also contains more protein, carbohydrates, and fats. Collard will stand much more cold than cabbage. By covering with sacks, pine brush, or other material during very hard freezes, it may be carried through almost anywhere in the South. Ordinary or light freezes improve its flavor, and no covering should be given until the temperature drops down to 10 or 15 degrees above zero.

While the collard is mainly a winter vegetable, many like it as spring or early-summer greens, though it is not then as sweet and tasty. For an early crop, sow seed or set plants when the early cabbage is planted.

Prepare ground, fertilize, and cultivate as for cabbage. Plants may be set thickly in the row, 5 to 8 inches apart. Let them grow into small bunchy plants like kale, or set 18 to 24 inches apart and allow to produce large stalks or plants.

For the winter crop, plant seed in late June, July, or August, either in beds for transplanting later or in rows where it is to grow. Many prefer the latter plan because it avoids the necessity of transplanting during hot, dry weather.

When planted where it is to grow, sow seed thinly and block out to three to five plants in hills 18 to 24 inches apart when up and growing well. Later thin to one plant, using the thinnings for setting elsewhere. By putting water in the trench before seed is sowed, as out-lined for cabbage, a stand can usually be had regardless of how hot and dry the weather may be.

Instead of thinning summer plantings by blocking out plants, many commercial growers let them stand until large enough to begin using and let cuttings thin to the desired distance. The single-plant method is best for spring planting.

Like all leafy vegetables, collard needs a rich soil. Liberal feeding will not only make it grow larger but more rapidly, which means much better quality.

Corn, Sweet

Sweet corn is considered by many to be much superior to ordinary field corn for roasting ears. The "taste test" proves that sweet corn, fresh from the garden, is tops in flavor and tenderness.

On fertile soil, plant sweet corn in rows y/2 feet wide. In the drill, plant one grain each 12 inches. On very rich soil, you can plant a little closer. On poor or droughty soil, plant 15 to 18 inches apart and fertilize liberally. Do not pull off any suckers, as these will also produce ears.

Plant in blocks of several short rows and not in one long row. This is necessary to insure proper pollination. If corn is planted in one long row, many or most of the cars will not fill out properly. This applies whether you plant sweet or nonsweet varieties.

Use a liberal quantity of a complete fertilizer before planting. Give a side dressing of nitrogen fertilizer when corn is about knee-high, or 40 to 45 days after planting. If available, you can sidedress with poultry manure after corn has been up 10 to 14 days.

As with other truck crops, the ground should be well prepared before planting. Put first planting in at earliest safe date and others at 10- to 14-day intervals for continuous fresh supply. For canning or freezing, make larger plantings early. Late plantings do not do well and will be subject to greater damage from corn earworms.

Popcorn

Prepare soil and fertilizer as for sweet corn. Make rows 3 to 3 1/2 feet wide and the hills from 12 lo 15 inches apart. Ask your experiment station for names of hybrids adapted to your area.

It is the hard starch in popcorn that makes it pop, and popcorn is largely made up of this substance. The moisture content must be from 12 to 14% to obtain a good pop. Too little moisture, below 11%, will result in a poor pop. Moisture content may be increased by sprinkling with just enough water to dampen slightly and putting in a tight container for one or two days.

Corn that is too dry pops feebly, may only partly split open, and may appear scorched; corn too moist pops with a loud explosion and is tough with small, jagged kernels. To assure proper drying, harvest only after the ears are fully mature and dry, a nd store where there is ample ventilation for the drying process to continue.

Corn Salad or Fetticus

Sometimes called lamb's lettuce, corn salad or fetticus is quite hardy and will go through Southern winters without protection. In extreme Upper South, give a light covering of straw or hay. Sow seed in rows in early fall as for lettuce and keep cultivated. It will be ready for use in late winter to early spring.

Use corn salad as a salad, like lettuce with other salads, or cook it with turnips and mustard for greens. Because of its mild flavor, it is best cook it alone for greens.

Cress

Cress is popular for salads and garnishing. Young shoots and leaves are used as greens. The two types watercress and upland cress. Watercress must have an abundance of water. It grows best at the edge of a branch or other place where water is available. Stagnant or standing water will not do.

Start it from seed or pieces of plants, putting them 5 or 6 inches apart each way. It may be planted almost any time, but early spring is considered best. For home use, a few square feet supply the average family.

If a suitable spring or brook is available, watercress can be grown with little effort. Locate bed near the house and where shallow water flows over the soil. In such a place you only push the basal ends of a few cuttings into the wet soil and let the plants grow.

Little soil is needed. In spots too rocky or gravelly for planting cuttings or seedlings, prepare a small bed of soil in a submerged shallow box. When plants become too rank, or look unthrifty, trim off about one-half to two-thirds of their length to stimulate fresh, succulent growth.

Where no spring or brook is available, watercress for home use can be grown in a small spot in the garden, or in a coldframe that is kept constantly wet by a small trickle of irrigation water on the soil surface. Such a spot of watercress should be located where the water will not harm other plants.

Cucumber

The cucumber contains 96% water, the highest in any vegetable. So it needs plenty of moisture. To help hold all possible moisture, apply large quantities of well rotted manure or compost either broadcast or under the drill before planting.

Plant only after danger of frost has passed. For the hill system, put plants 5 to 6 feet apart each way. Put in each hill a gallon or more of well rotted manure and a handful of a complete fertilizer. Work this well into soil so it will be at least 2 or 3 inches below seed.

For the row method, lay off rows 5 to 6 feet apart. To the seed bed apply well rotted manure or compost heavily and commercial fertilizer at the rate of 10 pounds per 100 feet of row. Mix well with soil, bed back on it, and keep seed well above manure and fertilizer.

Plant four to six seed in hills 2 to 3 feet apart. Thin to one or two plants after they are well established, but don't be in a hurry, as insects often destroy many young plants. Check your state planting guides for best adapted varieties in your area.

It is not necessary to wait until cucumbers are fully grown to start using them. They are excellent any time after they are 2 to 3 inches long. To keep them bearing, never let one ripen on the vine, even if they must be thrown away.

Dandelion

Although we usually think of it as a troublesome weed, the dandelion makes excellent early-spring greens. The cultivated kind is much better than the wild type. Sow seed in rows in late August or September and thin to one plant every 6 inches.

Eggplant

The eggplant is a delicious vegetable. Ten to 12 plants will produce all or more than an average family can use. It is a very tender plant and should not be set in the open until a week or two after all danger of frost has passed. When set too early, even if no frost comes, a cool spell of several nights may kill it.

Start plants in a hotbed or boxes indoors. Transplant in coldframes to have stocky plants when tine comes to set in the garden. In many places plants can be bought at seed stores at other places.

A rich soil, or plenty of fertilizer as for tomatoes, is essential. Set plants 3 1/2 to 4 feet apart in rows 3 to 4 ft wide. If plants become too heavy with their crop, they may be tied to stakes but usually this is not necessary.